Sunday, May 4, 2008

Berlin - Berlin, Germany

Jump to the full
entry & travel map
Berlin, Germany

This morning I put on the top I bought in Moscow with the hope that I could get rid of my tan lines from earlier on the trip (so I wouldn't have lines for Angelina's wedding. Unfortunately the weather did not agree with me and it was overcast and dreary.  We met at the hotel lobby to catch the tram and were in downtown Berlin at the Alexanderplaz in no time. Here we walked to a park and met our guide for the morning. The guide was an American girl who was a student in Berlin and did tours in her free time... and she was amazing! You could tell she was following a script at times, but she didn't have any papers with her and was crammed full of interesting facts! When she first met up with us she gave us a lot of history on the city of Berlin, which included the Second World War and the Berlin Wall era. We also got all of this information in front of a statue of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels... so it seemed somehow apropos! As we began the tour it started to drizzle out, and only about half the group had umbrellas. I still had my slightly damaged Dutch umbrella, but ended up lending it to Kristy and sharing an umbrella with Rhian.

The tour was a walking tour through Berlin. The first stop was the Bebelplaz. Here we looked at the memorial to the 21,000 books burned by the Nazi's. The memorial is simply a room with empty bookshelves, symbolizing the books that were burnt. The room itself is underground and you can see it through a glass pane in the ground. As we had been walking that morning, and even the day before, most people in the group had noticed the Walk/Stop lights, or as we called them, the "Stop-Go Man". These had been the traditional lights in East Berlin, and after unification when signs would stop working they would be replaced with the traditional West Berlin Walk/Stop lights, as normally West Berlin was seen as having the 'better' way of doing things. The East Berliners were not impressed with this idea, and argued to have the cute little Stop-Go Men used instead... and the city relented and now we have the cute little Ampelmännchen all over the city.

The next stop on the tour was a metro station that had been closed for some 28 years when the Berlin wall was up. The Berlin metro had ran throughout the city, and when the wall went up there was a problem about what to do with the metro. The people in the East decided to board up the stations, and the trains would run from the West, through the East without stopping, until they were in the West again. These stations were known as ghost stations, and even now seem somewhat 'darker'. Although perhaps I just heard the story and was seeing the station through jaded eyes!

We wandered on to Pariser Plaz where the Brandenburg Gate is. This is also the location of the Adlon Hotel, which is where Michael Jackson dangled his baby off the balcony, and our tour guide even pointed out which balcony that was. Here we had about 15 minutes free time, and the slight drizzle had turned into rain. Kristy and I decided that we better buy umbrellas (mine was not holding up well with 3 spokes poking out), so we went to a souvenir shop and got umbrellas. I even got one that said "Berlin" on it... although though it cost another 2 Euro! (Apparently I've got money to burn!) With the rest of our free time we went to Dunkin Doughnuts and grabbed a coffee and I had a doughnut. Even though it's a well know American chain, neither of us had ever been to one, and it seemed at least a little more exotic than Starbucks! I was going to throw my broken umbrella out, but I thought it would be nicer to see if some umbrellaless soul in the group would be able to use it. I asked David if he wanted it, and he said no. I was a little surprised so asked again, just to be sure, and again he said that he was fine. At this point I didn't understand, and made it clear that I was going to throw the thing in the garbage, and David finally agreed that he could use it!

From here we walked to the Jewish Holocaust Memorial. The memorial is a bunch of grey, granite blocks, in row upon row, that start off smaller (waist height), and become bigger towards the middle of the memorial (double or triple me). The monument is designed to make you feel oppressed, and being there on a dreary, rainy, grey day, they had the intended effect. We had time to walk through on our own, and it was easy to get lost in the blocks and feel small and insignificant. Kristy and I walked through, and even though there's nothing dramatic at the monument, I still felt that it was moving and poignant.

After the Holocaust memorial we walked to Hitler's bunker, which is underneath a residential complex! Here we were told about Hitler's last days, the discovery of his bunker and the discovery of his remains, which are currently in Russia. We also learned that in Germany it is illegal to basically exhibit Nazi or Hitler-loving behaviour. Our guide told us that a man had been jailed for naming his dog Adolph! From the bunker we walked past bullet-riddled walls to the Topography of Terror (big painting) and we saw another portion of the Berlin Wall. Our tour ended at Checkpoint Charlie, where people had the option of heading back to Alexanderplaz with the guide, or going off on their own. Several of us decided we needed pictures of ourselves at Checkpoint Charlie. Kristy and I also wanted to go into the museum, but the wait was over an hour, and we only had the afternoon left in Berlin, so instead we hit up a souvenir shop, where I managed to buy myself a Russian jumper! Also, in a 'believe how much I spent on the two jumpers!!! Since I was a little cold I decided to put on my fancy new Russian jumper, but was stopped by Reky. I'm still not sure why, but Reky would not let me wear my Russian jumper because it was Independence Day. It made no sense to me, and I stared at him in total bewilderment for a good 30 seconds before placing my pretty red jumper back in the bag and pulling out my Berlin one instead. Luckily it was as cozy as my Russian one, so I was only sad for a minute.

By this time it was past 1pm and we were getting hungry. We had been told there was a revolving restaurant at the top of the TV Tower in Alexanderplaz so we decided to go there to eat, and grabbed the train. It took a couple minutes to figure out which train we needed, but eventually we found one and started to get on. The doors began to shut, and we saw Rhian and Troy standing on the platform. One stop later we got off and waited for the next train, where we rejoined the boys! On the train ride to Alexanderplaz, Kristy, David and Rhian decided to talk in a made-up language for the duration of the train ride. I can't remember any of the sayings they used, but they insisted it was normal Aussie slang. At this point I gave up trying to understand the millions of words and phrases that consist of Aussie slang, and settled on just overusing my three favourite words: random, heaps, and nackered. I also became convinced that someone would make up sayings "fair dinkum" other than when they try to pretend to us Canadians that they actually use it, and also, really, can you ever be hungry enough to eat the crotch out of a dead Leper's undies!!! (thanks for the visual David!!)

When we got to the TV Tower, some people were worried about the price of the food in the restaurant, and the cost to go up the tower. After a lot of standing around, we finally got to the top of the tower, although only Jenn, David, Stacey and I made it on the first round. The four of us got a table, and tried to get a table for the last five, but something was lost in translation and we got our table and the others had to wait in line. The prices on the menu were reasonable, and we all ordered a drink and our food. While waiting for the food I went to check on the others, and Kristy, Rhian, Tom, Reky and Troy were enjoying the view on the other side. The view from the restaurant was pretty good (worth the 8 Euro to me), but the restaurant itself was spinning a lot faster than I'd expected! You could actually see it moving! At one point Jenn was standing and leaning on David's chair, and within five minutes she had almost fallen sideways! The food was good, and we enjoyed the break from the rain and all the walking we did that morning.

After lunch several people decided they were going to go back to the hostel, and the rest of us decided to take the train to the Reichstag. We got off at one stop, and saw a sign that said "400m Reichstag" and pointed in one direction. So we followed that sign and a little while later saw a sign that said "600m Reichstag" ... something was not working! We reversed directions and eventually made our way to the Reichstag. Again the line looked too long to walk to the top, and we'd just been to the top of the TV tower anyways, so we just took pictures. Then Stacey and I wanted to go to the Jewish Holocaust Museum, and the others wanted to go back to the hostel, so the two of us broke off on our own. Again my impeccable sense of direction came into play, and I led us in the wrong direction. Luckily I had a map and figured it out after a block! At the memorial we walked through, and couldn't seem to find the entrance to the museum! It took a while, but we eventually located it, and then waited in line. While in line it really started to rain, and the line wasn't moving. After about 20 minutes we looked at our watches, and realized that by the time we got in we weren't going to have much time in the museum before we would have to go. So we gave up on the museum and took shelter in a souvenirs shop for about 15 minutes. I also got the last of the souvenirs I needed to bring home. As well, I got myself a Stop-Go Man door sign (like in hotel when they have a door sign that says "Do Not Disturb"). Kristy and I had seen one earlier, and joked that we'd have to get one and put it up that night when we got home from the bar. I saw one at the shop, and it was a little too amusing ... so I decided I had to buy it... just in case we needed it that night (plus it's cuter than a sock on the doorknob!!) After our shopping Stacey and I walked to the train, took the train to Alexanderplaz, and then found the Tram to go back to the hostel. And we didn't get lost once! Although we came close when we were near the hostel as there are two stations that have almost the same name!

At the hostel Kristy was attempting a nap, but by the time I got out of the shower she'd decided that it wasn't going to work, and got up and got ready for the Berlin Dinner and Nightlife tour. That night I had a fat moment, and couldn't find anything I wanted to wear out! I hadn't bought many bar clothes since I quit smoking a year ago and gained a bunch of weight... so everything looked horrible on me! I picked something, and Kristy was decked out in the dress she bought in Warsaw, and we were ready to go! We took the tram downtown, and had a long hike to our restaurant, which was a crazy potato place! We sat down, and were joined in the restaurant by the Eastern Road tour. At supper, David was sitting beside me and as usual bugged me about taking so long to eat my meal. When he went out for a smoke we all got dessert, and I had eaten most of mine by the time he got back in. I commented to David that I was finally going to finish a meal before he did, and he laughed and said he was sure he'd still finish first. I looked at him and said, "No you won't!" and crammed the rest in my mouth... all 4 bites! My mouth was so full I could hardly chew, and David's laughter did not help with the swallowing! I finally swallowed it down, but not before a moment or two when I thought it might come out my nose! After the meal we had time for photos with all the tables, and then went outside for shots of Peach Schnapps before our first bar. Jenn was helping pour the shots, and ended up holding the empty bottle with no garbage bin in sight... so she wandered through the streets of Berlin with a bottle of grog in true lush style!

Our first bar of the night was a Turkish Sheesha lounge. Most people here ordered a sheesha and within 20 minutes the place was filled with a distinct smoky haze. With all the sheeshas around me I was reminded of my trip to Egypt and had a nostalgic moment or two where I happily gazed around and saw the pyramids on the Giza plateau rather than my tour mates in Berlin! I also sat beside Ryan for a bit at the bar and we ended up having a great chat! Ryan had been on the Scandinavia tour and was one of the first Scandi people (along with Dane) to actually integrate with the group as a whole. Beyond small conversations here and there I hadn't talked to Ryan much, but after our brief chat at the Turkish bar I wished I'd gotten to know him better.

The next bar we went to was a little trendier, and here we enjoyed some slushy shots and many more pictures. Reky and I also had what was probably my first and only work related conversation of the tour. I'd had a couple drinks by that time, so probably wasn't as coherent as I could have been, but I think I managed to hold my own in an intelligent conversation! I think I also may have surprised Reky a little, because I know I tend to come off as an airhead, but am actually quite educated, and this may have been the first time he saw that side of me! We chatted about the effect of the sub-prime mortgage sector, specifically as it related to new construction (Reky's a civil engineer), and it's ramifications on the U.S. and international economies. We chatted for a while at this bar, and then we were on to the third bar of the evening, which was a funky little pub with a live band. The singer was good and took requests, which included Happy Birthday for Kenny and American Pie. Here we met Tom's little brother and his friend, and is he ever like Tom! The kid was hilarious, although by no means as cool as Tom! Then we were on to the last stop of the night, which was a nightclub where we could dance the night away. The nightclub was a lot of fun, and we all danced and drank a lot. We also met the Eastern Road tour here, so the place was crowded and subsequently really hot. I could only dance a couple songs in a row before I would start to die from the heat. I spent a lot of time in the bathrooms, not because I have a small bladder, or that I was praying to the porcelain gods, but because it was the only place in the bar that seemed air-conditioned! During the night Tammy, some others and myself were sitting in an un-crowded area of the bar, and started talking to two German guys. The two guys were from the countryside, and really nice. They were also there with Mona, who was from Berlin, and it was her birthday! We ended up talking to her and dancing with her for most of the night and she was absolutely hilarious and a lot of fun to hang out with!

Slowly everyone started to leave, until it was only Kristy, Troy, Rhian and myself. We all wandered out and found a Kebab place that would satisfy our after bar hunger. Rhian and Troy got some kebabs, and Kristy and I each got a Cheeseburger and fries (with heaps of mayo for the fries). After loading up on food we went to find a way home. I'm not sure why, but we were sure that we could take the tram home, even though it was about 4am, and we found a tram with the right number and tried to get on. Since it was locked up tight we eventually gave up and grabbed a cab back to the hostel.

Warsaw to Berlin - Berlin, Germany

Jump to the full
entry & travel map
Berlin, Germany

The spread for breakfast was phenomenal again this morning, and after breakfast we jumped on the bus to head to Berlin. Warsaw was a great city, and I was sad that we were leaving so soon after we got there. One day was not enough time to see everything the city had to offer, so as the bus drove out of Warsaw I decided this was one place I needed to see again, and rather than saying good-bye to this fabulous city, I decided to say "See you Later". Today was a long day on the bus, and there weren't any historically interesting sites to see, so most of us took the time on the bus to try and catch up on sleep and relax.


Just after 5pm we pulled into Berlin, and our first stop was the Berlin wall! We were let off the coach and had time for photos and to look at the wall. Then we walked down the wall for about half an hour to meet the bus, which was filling up with gas. Walking along the wall was interesting, and it was neat to stand beside a part of history. Even though I was young when the wall came down (9) I vaguely remember the event, although mostly what I remember are my parent's reactions.

After we got back on the bus we headed to a Beer Hall for a traditional German meal. We parked the bus and walked through the parking lot to where supper was. On the way I started to cross a road and noticed a large bus heading straight for me. I figured that rather than walk the three steps back to the side of the road it would be smarter to cross, so I quickened my pace to walk across, and halfway across I dropped my purse!! At this point I froze, then screamed lightly, picked up my purse and dashed across the street! After the bus passed everyone bugged me about why I would walk in front of a bus, but I didn't hear most of what everyone was saying because I was waiting for my heart to return to normal!!! We had a bit of time to wander, and the Polish Twins (aka Stacey and I in our matching Polish jumpers) got a photo. We were going to do some souvenir shopping, but it started to spit rain out so we decided to head to the restaurant. Supper was technically included in the tour, but rather than include the same supper for everyone we got each 10 Euro and could spent it however we chose. I decided to get a small stein of beer and a Bratwurst with Sauerkraut and mashed potatoes. When my beer came a couple of the guys gave me grief about my child sized beer (everyone else was drinking the massive German steins). Reky and Troy decided this would be the perfect opportunity to take a photo of themselves and my beer... with Reky looking like a midget. It was quite comical! Supper came, and was delicious. At first I thought there was no way one sausage would fill me up, but at the end of the meal I could barley get any more food in me! Although Maddie and I decided we did have enough room to share an apple strudel... and it was well worth our while!

The entire meal was a lot of fun, and we spent a good part of the evening talking, laughing, and taking photos! After the meal Reky called on Katya and Che to thank them for everything they had done for us on the tour. Also after the meal Troy went out for a smoke or something and left his camera on the table. We decided to do boob shots of all the girls and let Troy figure out who was who later on. When it came time for me I wouldn't agree because my tattoo would give me away instantly. So Reky somehow convinced me to get an ass crack photo. Although I don't think it turned out well since I was laughing, while Laura V was pulling my pants down and Reky took the photo! The guys even got in on it, adding some 'boob' and ass shots to the mix. Later when Troy noticed the photos we cracked up laughing, and the look on his face when he got to the first guy was priceless! We had a bit of free time before we had to be back on the bus, so Kristy, Laura and I decided to wander over to a church across the road. Then we went to a souvenir shop and bought a couple things, and suddenly it was time to board the bus.

The bus ride from supper to the hostel was the most animated bus ride we'd had all tour. Most of the group was up dancing in the isle... you could tell that everyone had enjoyed a couple steins at the bar! When we arrived at the hostel we unloaded our luggage and checked in. Originally we were supposed to be in rooms of four, and Jenn and Stacey had signed Kristy and I up to room with them. But somehow when we got to the hostel things had been switched, and we ended up in double share rooms, so it was just Kristy and I! The elevators were taking ages, since there were so many people trying to get up, so when one finally arrived, we crammed all of our luggage on with Tammy and ran up the four flights! In our room Kristy and I changed out of our grimy traveling clothes and David and Rhian came over and we enjoyed some Russian vodka together (well, Kristy and I enjoyed ours... but David and Rhian were still drinking Dodgy Serge's rocket fuel, so I don't know if 'enjoy' is the correct word!). After a couple drinks we went to the hostel bar. When we got into the bar most of our Contiki group was already there, and several drinks ahead of us! The bar was busy, but filled with 16-year-olds, and really hot. It was also really hard to get a drink, so I didn't end up staying too late, and was in bed by 2:00 (it's amazing how one's definition of 'late' changes during a Contiki tour!)

We have flown to Ecuador - Quito, Ecuador

Jump to the full
entry & travel map
Quito, Ecuador

Arrived at high altitude for the first time on this trip!

Arrived in Quito yesterday at 2850m, and it really is noticeable. My contact lense solution squirted out like an oil strike when I opened the bottle because the air lacks so much pressure. Noticeably harder to climb stairs, and reading out loud I can`t get to the end of sentences without pausing for breath!

Kyoto back for the festival - Kyoto, Japan

Jump to the full
entry & travel map
Kyoto, Japan

To be continued

Spring Break... - New York City, New York, United States

Jump to the full
entry & travel map
New York City, New York, United States

So I am back dating a bit :)

Warsaw - Warsaw, Poland

Jump to the full
entry & travel map
Warsaw, Poland

The breakfast at the hotel this morning was fantastic! The hotel had a massive spread and everything was very tasty. We even got bacon! After breakfast we got onto the bus, and toured the city with our local guide Jacek. Jacek was an older man and an amazing tour guide. We were driven around the city, and our first stop was the Chopin monument. We walked into some beautiful gardens and then stopped for a bunch of photos with the monument. When we walked out we went past a demonstration of the Warsaw nurses. Apparently the nurses in Warsaw were on strike and they were camped in tents all along the road. There were also a bunch of policemen there... and are the Polish police ever handsome!
 
The next stop on the agenda was the Warsaw Ghetto monument. After reading Mila 18 last fall I was looking forward to coming to Warsaw and seeing the Ghetto. (By the way, Mila 18 is an amazing novel about life in the Warsaw Ghetto during WWII written by Leon Uris.) Since the war everything has been re-built, and you don't see many reminders of what happened there less than a century earlier. I took a look at the monument and then wandered off in the park behind by myself. I wanted some alone time to contemplate what had gone on during the war, and the ten-minute walk I had in the park by myself was exactly what I was looking for. After the Ghetto we saw the Warsaw Uprising monument. The Warsaw Uprising began on August 1, 1944 as part of a nationwide rebellion with the objective to drive the German occupiers from Warsaw. During the urban combat approximately 25% of Warsaw's buildings were destroyed. The uprising lasted for 63 days, and following the surrender of Polish forces on October 2, German troops systematically burned the city, block by block. Together with earlier damage suffered in 1939 and during the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising over 85% of the city had been destroyed. Even now, all over Warsaw, you can see a symbol that looks like an anchor with a handle at the Top.  The anchor combines the letters "P" and "W" which are the initials of Polska Walczacd, or Poland Fights.

After the ghetto, we were brought to the Old Town. Jacek brought us through the streets and to a church and then finished our city tour at St. Anne's church where we would meet later for the Chopin recital. Then was had free time, and the first thing we wanted to do was eat! Che had talked about a Polish delicacy that none of the Aussies had heard of... perogies!! I couldn't believe these people had never eaten a perogi before! But even some of the Americans hadn't ever had one. I was shocked! Kristy and I wanted to eat in the Old Market Square, and everyone else was just standing around and fiddling their thumbs. Finally we started walking away and I yelled out that we were going to the Old Market Square for lunch. Everyone turned and followed us, and Kristy and I laughed at how all they needed was someone to decide something! We made it back to the Square, looked around and found a place where all of us could sit together... and a place that had perogies. Laura and I had talked these up, so everyone had to try some... and they sucked! I think the place was a fancy place, because the perogi choices were Partridge or Sauerkraut and Mushrooms. And they weren't even as good as the perogies I make! And I'm not a good cook! Laura and I tried to explain to everyone that these were not as good as normal perogies, but I don't think anyone cared!
 
After lunch we wandered around and shopped at some of the stores near the Old Market Square. Unfortunately it was a Monday, and all the museums were closed for the day, so there wasn't much to do other than shop and wander, which we did! Then we wandered towards St. Anna's Cathedral. Kristy and I were planning on going to see the castle nearby, but somehow had spent too much time shopping, so we just went to St. Anna's and climbed to the top of the cathedral. It was a long way up, but we all made it, and were rewarded with some fantastic photos! Then we headed back down, and had a little bit of time to wander through the markets.

 Then it was time to meet up for our Chopin recital. We got onto the bus and were brought to a beautiful palace. We sat down and got to listen to Chopin being performed just for us! It was very relaxing... although considering I was pretty tired I don't think I really needed to be relaxed! At intermission we had some champagne and then listened to the last half of the recital. After the recital we went outside and were able to look at the grounds and the peacocks before wandering back to the bus.

We were bussed back to the old town, where most people headed back to the hotel. Donna had told Laura and Tammy (who didn't go to the recital) that she would meet them at the bus drop off, but since we were half an hour early they weren't there yet. Kristy and I had decided to stay in town, so we sat beside St. Anna's and waited with Donna. Around 6:00 Laura and Tammy showed up. Donna had wanted to head back to the hotel, but none of the rest of us did, so she left to catch a bus and the rest of us wandered back to the Old Square. Laura and I walked past a Perogeria and were both intrigued. Tammy wanted to find a new pair of flip-flops, and Kristy wanted to shop, so the four of us split into two groups. Laura and I checked out a couple restaurants around the area, and then ended up walked back to the Perogeria, where we had some amazing perogies! They had a huge assortment of different kinds of perogies, and you could choose a mixed plate, which is what we each had. I chose cottage cheese, meat, spinach, and potato and cheese, and Laura substituted the cottage cheese for mushroom and sauerkraut. The food was amazing! And even though neither of us was hungry when we walked in, we both polished off our plates.

After we finished we walked back to the bus stop and caught a bus back to the hotel. Initially we were supposed to meet everyone at the hotel lobby at 8:00 or the swinging bench bar at 8:30, but it was already 8:10 and there was no way Laura and I were going to make it to the benches (a 10 minute walk) in time! Luckily we ran into Donna and some other people on the way, and told them we'd be there at 9:00. We asked Donna if Tammy and Kristy were back yet, assuming we were the last, but they hadn't been seen. We quickly walked the rest of the way to the hotel, and checked Tammy and Kristy's room, but there was no sign of them. We each headed off to get ready, and shortly after Tammy knocked saying they had just gotten back and would be ready to leave at 9:00, but had run into some other people heading to the benches and told them we'd meet them by 9:30... only an hour late! In the mean time I was actually almost ready, so I did some laundry and re-packed my bag, and also attempted to look nice for the night. Shortly before 9:00 I headed to the lobby and ran into Reky who had been waiting for about half an hour. Apparently he had mixed up the message and thought it was 8:30 at the lobby and was slightly irritated thinking everyone had ditched him! The rest of us made it down, and we headed to the bar, arriving around 9:15. Once there we took a couple photos, and met Kosta, who was on the Eastern Road tour that was in Warsaw the night. Kosta had actually been on the Scandinavia tour, and had hung out with Ryan, Nicole, Steph, etc. Che had been sitting with the Eastern Road tour (in the same bar), and came over to say they were heading to a bar he knew about if we wanted to join... although there was no guarantee that we would be able to get in with so many people. Even though his invite was appealing (note sarcasm), after the Propaganda incident, and considering we only had a couple days left together, we decided to hit a bar Kristy had found in a tour book.

We ended up going to a bar called Folksal, which was on Folksal street... cunning, isn't it?!? On the way over to the bar several people really had to use the washroom, as we hadn't gone at the last place since it wanted to charge for the use of the facilities. Tom in particular had to go, so when we got in he made a beeline for the basement and the toilets. Ryan was right behind him, followed by Donna, and myself and we watched Tom take a quick left and enter a washroom, followed by Ryan. Then Donna and I walked up and saw the sign that said "ladies". We both followed Tom in, and Donna pulled on a door handle. The door opened... and Donna got to see Tom... mid-stream! Donna was not impressed as she didn't enjoy the view, and there were only two stalls in the ladies room, both of which were being used by men! Finally the guys finished and I got a nice photo of the guys and I in the ladies room! I actually hadn't needed to go to the toilet, but instead, I needed a sink because I got dirt or something under my contact lens. This had happened just outside the bar, and was mildly comical as several people thought I was crying (my eye was watering quite badly), and I lost the lens and had it in my hand and was subsequently having vision issues! Lucky for me Tammy had eye drops with her, and within about ten minutes I was able to see correctly again. At Folksal we enjoyed some drinks and enjoyed the evening. They even had mock-tails for Reky to enjoy! (Yhea Tammy for being one of the most thoughtful people in the world!)

After a while the group decided it was time to head to the next bar. We got to the exit, and saw that it was raining, but Kristy ensured us that the bar was just around the corner. We all dashed outside, down the street and around the corner, then hid in an archway while the navigators tried to figure out where the bar was. Then we dashed from archway to archway, down the street, losing Tom in the process. Rhian and I ended up an archway behind everyone, and then with Kosta, Nicole and Steph. The five of us dashed around the corner of the street we'd seen everyone head down only a minute earlier, but there was no one in sight! We figured they were in an archway ahead, so we slowly kept dashing down the street. Eventually we lost Kosta, Nicole and Steph, as they had more energy than we did (I'd given up on 'dashing' arches ago and was limiting myself to a quick walk). After about 15 minutes going down the block Rhian and I figured we would never find the rest of the crew. We didn't know the name of the bar we were trying to find, and it had started pouring rain, so we attempted to get a cab back to the hotel. Oddly enough, earlier when we didn't need a cab they kept stopping for us, but now that we wanted one, none would stop! Finally we got one and headed back to the hotel looking like two drowned rats! The next day we found out that the bar everyone had gone to was just around that first corner, through a courtyard and in a basement, with no sign. So no wonder we didn't find it!!  As well, everyone assumed we'd taken a cab back to the hotel, so no one looked for us. Apparently the bar was a good time, although the owners were strict about not taking photos and Jenn's camera was dropped and assumed broken for some of the night.

Belgrade - Belgrade, Serbia and Montenegro

Jump to the full
entry & travel map
Belgrade, Serbia and Montenegro

The journey to Belgrade was to be my first experience of the overnight sleeper carriage and, as I sat there on the  cold platform in Budapest and watched the ancient-looking Beograd Express creak into view, a momentary wave of dread passed over me. Yet despite its inauspicious arrival, it was with great anticipation and excitement that I boarded the train, and as the attendant escorted me to my compartment he informed me I'd have the two-bed birth to myself. Though I'd been starved of company in Budapest, I was not unduly concerned by the continued solitude, as it was already approaching midnight and any potential conversation would quickly have been curtailed by the desire to sleep. The compact compartment had a cosy feel to it, with a bed that would be unsuitable for anyone taller than my 5'10 frame, a table and chair in one corner and a cleverly concealed sink in the other. It was also impeccably clean, and a goody bag of soaps, towels and refreshments had been left lovingly on the table. I collapsed into the chair and smiled contentedly - my previous train journeys had been fleeting affairs, but this was the romance of rail travel I had come in search of.
 
Though I was tired, I stayed up for a while in order to savour the experience; when I did finally retire to bed, the romance began to unravel. Under the hushed darkness of my bed-sheets, the carriage became like a furnace, and the hot air could neither be cooled nor turned off. I tried opening the window, but this only seemed to let in light and noise. My recumbent posture, meanwhile, seemed to absorb every twist and turn and brake of the train, yanking me unsubtly one way then the other like a favourite toy in the hands of an excitable child. After a restless few hours, a knock at my door drew me from my faux-slumber and signalled passport control. For a moment, as the imposingly-dressed Serbian border guard leafed suspiciously through my passport, I thought he was going to take issue with all my Arab visas. But, with a warm smile, he said simply "Welcome to Serbia", before disappearing to the next compartment. By the time the train arrived in Belgrade that morning, I had managed no more than a couple of hours sleep. Yet, the romance of the sleeper carriage would just about live on for now. 
 
                                                                    *
 
The walk to the hostel was a confusing one, as I was unable to match the street names that I'd scribbled down in my directions with the Cyrillic street names around me, and I owed my timely arrival to blind chance. Along the way, I passed by two bombed-out buildings, which lay like rotting carcasses of the war-ravaged Balkans of the 90s, and leant intrigue to an otherwise monochrome landscape of soulless office blocks and apartments. The hostel lay in the courtyard of just such an apartment block, and was similarly uninspiring. Inside, I found the receptionist asleep on the couch, strewn prostrate in the kind of drunken pose from which one rises with the surety of a hangover, his out-stretched arm suspended in rigour as if his last drunken action of reaching for the nearby ashtray had been frozen in time. Oh no, I thought, another bad hostel. Elsewhere there were no other signs of life, and I prepared myself for the probability of solitude in another capital. 
 
My exploration of the city that day was as frustrating as it was interesting, the Cyrillic signage perplexing me at every turn, yet punctuating my blind wanderings with serendipitous discovery. After several wrong turns I finally found myself in Republic Square, the focal point of Belgrade's pedestrianised city centre. As with much of the city, it seemed bereft of attractive architecture, the bland uniformity of the Communist era facades still clogging the cityscape like a dull sky on a drizzly day. Yet the streets were abuzz with local shoppers, vendors and eaters, and I could barely believe it was just a normal weekday morning, so vibrant was the scene. And the insipidity of the buildings, meanwhile, was more than compensated by the exotic beauty of Belgrade's women who flanked the sidewalks in improbable numbers, their dark, ethnically-mixed features launching me into involuntary bouts of lechery throughout the day.  


Further along, I came to Kalemegdan Citadel, the city's Celtic fortress. The grounds of the citadel revealed a delightful expanse of lawns, trees and walkways perched peacefully above the suburbs, but incongruously interspersed with scaled-down military memorabilia; and below lay a sweeping panorama of wintered forest through which the Sava and Danube rivers cut lazy zigzags before converging at the foot of the fortress. It was an unexpectedly bucolic scene, and for a while I sat contently amidst it, charmed by its easy silence, and spurred by the crispness in the air.
 
Back in the city, I found myself at a sports cafe where I harboured hopes of catching any of the Australian Open tennis semi-finals (three of the four involved Serbian players). I figured I'd grab a bite to eat, rest my limbs from the ludicrously hilly street-walking, and absorb some fervent, sporting patriotism all at once. Upon enquiring as to whether they might be showing such a match, the waiter replied simply, "I not know much of sport. I know only of women and money, my friend". How helpful, I thought, as I gazed around the sport-filled room to make sure I'd not stumbled into a brothel by mistake. I gave him the kind of laddish smile and pat on the back that such a comment craves then headed out for some street food instead.
 
Re-energised by pizza and burek, I headed down to the train station to buy my onward ticket for the next morning. Upon announcing my desire to travel on the Balkan Express to Sofia, the ticket lady gave me a rather disconcerting "are you sure?" look, but I persisted nonetheless. She quoted me a price and, realising how cheap the fare was going to be, I enquired as to whether there was a first class carriage. This time she shot me a wry smile that said "you'll be lucky if your carriage has wheels" before announcing in an embarrassed tone that there was no first class. While she processed my ticket, I enquired as to whether there was a dining car on the train, though by this stage I could have guessed the answer. Her wry smile had progressed to a barely contained snigger in response to the food question, and I felt it did not bode well for tomorrow's trip that the lady had found the concept of food or comfort so laughably at odds with whatever lay in stall for me on the Balkan Express. 
 

Back amid my blind wanderings, I took in a couple of churches and the parliament building before stumbling upon the Nicola Tesla museum. Now, my knowledge of Tesla (the real inventor of the radio who discovered, among other things, alternating current) had been shamefully minimal given the importance of his discoveries, and in fact derived almost exclusively from having watched the film 'The Prestige' in which Tesla is portrayed by a certain David Bowie (no really). The museum turned out to be an unexpected highlight, as it offered an interesting short biopic of Tesla, and an interactive array of his inventions made into simplified models for laymen like me. At the end of the tour, the guide gave each of the group an unattached fluorescent tube light and told us to hold it up in our hands while he switched on the Tesla machine (made famous in 'The Prestige'). Suddenly, crackling beams of electric lightening spewed forth from the top of the machine, like something from a sci-fi movie (or the opening credits of 'Quantum Leap'); then the bulbs in our hands began to glow by the power of our own bodies. It was all rather cool and, as I stood there waving my glowing fluorescent tube light in the air, I realised this was as close to a Star Wars light sabre fight as I was ever going to get.   
 
Back at the hostel that evening there were still no signs of backpacker life and, having spent my remaining local currency on food supplies for the train journey, I reluctantly decided to call it a night. As I reflected on my all-too-brief visit to Belgrade, I realised I would leave with mixed impressions. On the one hand, my appetite for grand old buildings had somewhat reached saturation, and so the city's fairly uninspiring and bleak architecture seemed insignificant in my overall assessment. What I had found most intriguing about Belgrade, though, was its vibrancy. Its streets - grey and lifeless at first glance - were in fact awash with people of all ages all out enjoying their city. It had had a carnival feel, yet I'd merely sampled a mid-winter's weekday like any other. And therein lay the frustration of my visit. Such vibrancy had hinted at the party atmosphere and nightlife scene for which Belgrade has become famous, but in my solitude I had failed to embrace it, and it too had failed to reach out to me. And so I would leave Serbia with tepid memories, but equally with the feeling that on another day I might just have had the craziest fun night of my trip. And that's enough to make me pencil into my imaginary diary a separate trip to the Balkans in the future. 

Salta - Salta, Argentina

Jump to the full
entry & travel map
Salta, Argentina

Salta

2 March - Chiang Mai - Chiang Mai, Thailand

Jump to the full
entry & travel map
Chiang Mai, Thailand

We took the overnight train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai.  Second class on the way there.  It was pretty comfortable overall, though the ventilation of the sleeping compartments hasn't been designed to cope with the effects of Thai curries.

Our first night we wandered down to the Sunday walking market.  A huge popular event with all sorts of goodies, we had lots of fun until a swarm of moths descended over the entire town.  Everyone around started choking on them.  We went for a late Japanese dinner and maggots were still falling from J's trouser legs.

The next day, we take a cooking class with the sister of Mai Kaidee (a well known cooking personality in Bangkok).  Was very informative and lots of fun.  At the trip to the market we learnt plenty of interesting facts about chillis, eggplants, mushrooms, banana flowers, etc.  In 2 hours we made 12 yummy dishes including curries, soups, spring rolls, etc.  At the end they expect you to eat it all, so we gave it our best effort but admitted defeat and took the leftovers home.  Unfortunately we couldn't face eating them and ended up throwing them out a day or so later and kept away from Thai food for a few days until we recovered.  Sometimes you can have too much Thai food! 

We spent an afternoon wandering around some of the many temples in the old city.  Chiang Mai is very well known for its abundant supply of temples, especially in the old part of the town.  All very impressive, but there does seem to be a lot of focus on who has the biggest, shiniest, most revered golden Buddha effigy, coupled with a subtle sense of wanting in the energy of the place.  Doubt Gautama the Buddha would be impressed with all this idolisation is his name.

We try out a few of the local massage specialties.  First up, J opts for a 1hr massage from the blind at a bargain rate of 150 Bhat.  The lady pretty much just pressed five points on each foot repeatedly for an hour while talking very loudly with the other 6 blind masseuses in the room.  There were no other clients.  The next day we decide to make use of one of the rather dodgy sounding activities listed in the Lonely Planet.  We both visit the Woman's prison for 1 hr traditional massage by inmates! It was the best massage yet and at a very good price.

Chiang Mai's night bazaar, would have to be the best, as well as the streets there are buildings with shops of home decor.  Eager to add to our meagre package waiting to be shipped back home we buy a wooden decorative carving and some large lamps.  It was going to be fun trying to take these back to Bangkok.

5th March is Louisa's birthday, so to celebrate we venture over the road for a nice breakfast then take a rickshaw into town to the markets.  Bit of shopping then find a spa where we both get 2hr treatment including herbal steam, body scrub and aromatherapy massage. 

For dinner we head to Riverside bar and restaurant for their river cruise.  We make our way over the rickety pier, noting that they mustn't have OSH in Thailand.  We were rushed to order food so they could cook it before we set sail.  Then they deliver all three courses at once, including ice cream dessert! Manage to send that back...  Sink a bottle of wine enjoying the sights along the river.  When we arrive back at the pier, we depart and J attempts to take a photo of the boat of L from the wharf.  Leaning against a bamboo balustrade it gives way.  Somehow J manages to avoid tumbling into the river with the camera, impressing the patrons sitting outside who are witnessed the entire event. 

Recapturing our breath we head inside and the restaurant / bar covers band started up with a superb rendition of a Joe Satriani number.  We settle in with another bottle of wine purely to calm those nerves.

Louisa spots girls from the big night out on Koh San Road and they join our table.  By request, the band plays happy birthday and another birthday girl is identified in the audience - 51 year old Sara, a teacher who lives in Chiang Mai, and her three daughters.  Louisa breaks the ice, their table joins ours and the party really gets going. 
Great music from the 2 covers bands including numerous Radiohead songs, the best version J's ever heard of "With or Without You" by U2 (even better than the original he reckons!).. and great rendition of " Little Wing" by Jimi Hendrix.  J almost in heaven.  But they don't know Radiohead "Creep".

At Sara's suggestion, we head to "Bubble", a club a few blocks away.  Dance a couple of hours away to trashy techno and neon strobes.  It seemed the night would never end.

Finally a rickshaw home with the Khoa San Rd girls, who we discovered were staying opposite us.  Louisa befriends a very cute but who-knows-where-its-been dog.

Slightly hungover we meet the girls for breakfast the next morning and spend the rest of the afternoon at the local cafe making use of their wifi before heading off to catch the train back to Bangkok.

Phew glad birthdays only happen once a year, it generally takes a year to get over the last one.

Thankfully we took first class on the way back - the extra room came in handy for all our extra purchases in Chiang Mai.

Peru at last! - Piura, Peru

Jump to the full
entry & travel map
Piura, Peru

After two months in South America, we have FINALLY made it to Peru! The border crossing was easier than we thought it would be, and the differences between Ecuador and Peru are more distinct than we thought they would be. There is a whole new sort of learning curve with vocabulary, practices, customs, money, even transportation.Just when we thought we had the hang of it! :)

I am sure that this will lead to some good (mis)adventures. Stay tuned!

Cantwell and the sled dogs - Cantwell, Alaska, United States

Jump to the full
entry & travel map
Cantwell, Alaska, United States

So I started out the morning early hopeing to see the sun come up and make some cool shadows on Denali, unfortunatly couldn't see Denali yet but I still got some cool photos.

Then, after some breakfast, I headed to this spot to do some snowshoeing. As I was getting ready this guy pulled up with his sled dogs and told me about a trail where I wouldn't have to use my shoes. So I said thanks a bunch and headed off. Well as I passed him he said, "well you could just ride wt me on the sled for a bit, only a mile or so cause then I gotta let ol Eli ride cause he's old and needs the rest"...so I said Hell yeah I'll ride wt you in the dogsled!!!...so he hooks'em up and off we go ....so we get about a mile into it and i'm having a ball...and he says well you could just finish the loop with us and if Eli gets tired we'll just toss him on your lap there in the sled.... ...so for like three hours I got to ride on a dog sled all over. We went down a canyon , which was sweet and pretty much straight down at one point...then we went along and on a frozen river for a spell...then we went around a mountain and up out of a canyon. It was Awesome!!!


After some lunch I did a bit of snowshoeing, which was harder than I expected,  but fun enough. I got to see some great vistas and play in the snow...30 inches of snow.

Then after cooking myself dinner and resting for a bit I headed back to the dog sled jump off point to check out the norther lights. ...which were amazing. Even cooler though was the fact that as I was standing there checking out the lights I started to hear what I thought were footsteps...quadraped footsteps...then out of the corner of my eye I saw what was making the noise...Caribou...they were all around me...apparantly they were crossing the road where I was parked...I couldn't get any pictures because it was pitch black...but they were everywhere!!!

7 Months - Trujillo, Peru

Jump to the full
entry & travel map
Trujillo, Peru

Day 2 at the beach and want a new hostel as ours is pretty horrid - and the window won´t shut! Good security! Alex and Michelle find a nicer hostel to more to, then its back to the beach! Somehow, Sven, a day behind us, manages to find us on the beach - i think its our fantastic panama hats!  We didn't get round to surfing, just swimming in the sea, body surfing, and tasting all the food and ice creams as the vendors trundle up and down the beach. Alex made a boat in the sand - i think the idea was it would be a sand sculpture, but a slightly strange Peruvian family got very interested and started joining in, so we all did too!  Then for a beer to watch the sun set over the pacific, as the tide came in to get us! Then to test a few of the bars along the strip.

Next day, tickets for the bus for that night, and then back to the beach. Need to keep the Churo man in business buying is dulce leche sweets! The surf and current is much bigger today so more fun in the sea, although we did see one resuscitation, he got up and walked after. Then the pleasure of being salivered on by an immense dog - i´m not sure i found it quite as funny as the others! A vendor tried to sell us his bracelets for about an hour, and then found us at the bus station at 10.30 - full marks for persistence. Odd to Trujillo now.

Thursday meet Owen on the bus and all head to Huanchaco, a nearby beach town. Then to Chan Chan ruins, halfway between the two towns. Its an adobe city in the midst of the coastal dessert.  Fascinating maze of rooms and ceremonial chambers, as well as a pool from a well. To the museum and rainbow temple, then totally shattered from all this culture we need some food, bus tickets can wait. There's a fiesta on the street in Huanchaco, some interesting music...a few cocktails and connect 4 championship for us in the bars!

Friday, we get our tickets for another night bus :-(, this time to Huaraz in the mountains. We check out Trujillo, with a beautiful centre, and great ice cream more importantly! We even manage to persuade the bus stewardess we should have the film in English!

Saturday arrive in Huaraz and check it out. Alicia has quit secret garden and returns to us tonight! The four are reunited!

Minsk to Warsaw - Warsaw, Poland

Jump to the full
entry & travel map
Warsaw, Poland

This morning we got onto the bus and had to say good-bye to Minsk. I'm sure that I'll never make it back to Belarus again, as there are too many places in the world I want to see, but I really enjoyed my brief visit to this picturesque country. As we were driving towards the Polish border, Rhian was not feeling very well, and at our first break of the day he made a mad dash to the bathroom. We had about 20 minutes at the rest stop and some people tried to use of the last of their Belarussian rubbles. David and Rhian had taken out about 50 Euro... and had thousands of rubbles left over. At the rest stop they looked, and they could have purchased a tire if they wanted! For myself, I took out 15 Euro worth of rubbles, and still had a little left over, after buying snack food for the day, about 4 drinks the night before, a metro ticket, and McDonalds!

Our first sightseeing stop this morning was at the Brest Fortress, which was absolutely beautiful. The Brest Fortress is one of the most important Soviet World War II war monuments, commemorating Soviet resistance against the German invasion on June 22, 1941. Approximately 7,000 Soviet military personnel gave their lives over the course of several weeks defending the Fortress, where the resistance "ceased to exist with the building itself". Because of the valiant efforts of the people who gave their lives, the Brest Fortress has been given the status of Hero Fortress, which has only been awarded to a total of twelve Soviet cities. Jenn and I decided to go to the souvenir shop before looking at the Fortress so we could spend the last of our last rubbles. Jenn also needed to buy a bottle of Brest Vodka for her brother-in- law who was originally from Brest. I had 2,500 rubbles left, which is about $1.25, and couldn't figure out what to spend it on. I though perhaps I could buy a bottle or two of beer, and when I wandered to the alcohol counter I saw a bottle of white wine for only 2,400 rubbles... sold! As I was trying to point to the bottle I wanted the lady kept grabbing at the bottles around the one I wanted. Finally when she got my bottle I nodded, and she gave me a look that seemed to be disgust coupled with "how stupid are you?!?" Once back in Canada when I drank the wine I understood the look. The wine tasted like a combination of bad port mixed with rubbing alcohol! After we had our booze, and were out of rubbles, we ran into Tom and walked to the Fortress. We only had about half an hour here, and could have used a lot more time! The memorial is large, and there's a lot to see inside it.

After our short visit we were on our way to the Polish border! Che warned us that this was the worst border crossing of the entire trip, and we had to be prepared for a long wait. The longest he had heard to take crossing the border was 16 hours, and the shortest was 3.5 hours. In Moscow, Galina had arranged for us to meet a Belarussian fellow who was going to help us bribe the right people and get through faster, but it was still anybody's guess at how long it would take. As we were waiting on the bus, Reky decided to start a pool on how long it would take. We had to pay in 50 Euro cent, could choose a ten-minute block. If we crossed the border during that time we won the pot! Pretty much everyone got in on the pool and it helped the time go by. At the border we all had lunch (from the store the day before), and sat outside and chatted. Rhian still wasn't feeling very good... and it was probably a good thing that we had a long border crossing, as he was able to spend a lot of time in the bathrooms! After about 3 hours at the crossing we were all told to get back on the bus, and it looked like we were going to get into Poland in no time at all. Laura V had 3 hours to 3 hours and 10 minutes, and it looked like she was going to win, until we had to turn back to get a road pass. Her time slipped by and Troy was up next. We slowly inched forward, and around 3 hours and 15 minutes we passed into Poland and Troy won the pool! As for myself, I was hoping we would take another hour... but sadly we went through too quickly!

We arrived at Warsaw and checked into our hotel around supper. The hotel in Warsaw was beautiful and I was really impressed! We had an amazing supper that night, and then a group of us went across the street to grab some money from the ATM. When we got back, I wanted to use the Internet quickly, and Jenn showed me to the hotel next door that had a computer. You had to pay for the Internet, but the guy at the front desk didn't have any change, so he let us go on for free! I checked e-mail quickly, and wrote mom a quick message, then Jenn did the same and we headed back to the hotel to wash up before meeting with everyone.

A bunch of us met in the lobby, and headed out to see what there was around the hotel. We walked past the central train station and saw a live band that we listened to for a song or two. Then we headed over to an outdoor bar that had swinging benches and we had a drink there. After the bar some people were heading to "Lemons", but I was in the mood for an 'early' night, and Reky was heading back, so we walked with everyone to the bar, then headed back the long way to the hotel. (I say 'early' because I think it was midnight at that point.) Reky and I chatted the whole way back, and somehow ended up talking about our flaws (I'm too cheerful... he's too protective), and relationships (both have commitment issues), and a bunch of other random topics! Our walk probably took about 45 minutes, but it was a nice relaxing time. Reky is a great guy, and I'd enjoyed getting to know him along the tour.

Alajuela Costa Rica - Alajuela, Costa Rica

Jump to the full
entry & travel map
Alajuela, Costa Rica

The bus journey from Granada Nicaragua to Costa Rica was a long 10 hours. All the border crossings
up to now have been fairly painless. Not this one!! It only took half an hour to do the formalities to leave Nicaragua but when we reached the entrance to Costa Rica there were at least 500 people in thé line.
We had to wait out in a big yard under the sun. I felt like I was in one of those Japanese prisoner of war
camp movies. One and a half hours later I reached the desk for a stamp that took one minute. Then it was back in the bus for another half an hour wait until the border police came to check the baggage. Out of 50 passengers
guess who was the only one they picked on to open her bag. Yes well I really look like a drugs or arms smuggler.
The other passengers commisserated with me afterwards,saying I was a symbol- not quite sure what they meant by that.
Anyway I am now staying in a lovely town-Alajuela -in Costa Rica,s Central Valley-half an hour from the capital,San Jose, and only a few minutes from the airport. It has a lovely leafy central plaza where I shall enjoy
chilling out. I am also in a bit of culture shock having spent the last couple of months in 3 very poor countries.
Costa Rica is much more developed and the shops here are full of consumer goods. I popped in a nearby supermarket last evening and it was on a par with anything in the States or Europe. My eyes were on stalks.
I was hoping to visit the caribbean coast of Costa Rica but haven´t left myself enough time. I think I have packed quite a lot into these 3 months but of course only scratched the surface of Central America and Mexico. You often get people posting questions on the lonely planet thorn tree forum asking if 2 weeks is enough time to see Central America. What ARE they thinking!!
Yesterday I did my last excursion of the trip to Volcano Poas=the second largest accessible volcanic crater in the world= and also to a beautiful coffee plantation and a waterfall park. The scenery on the way was stunning. Lush green rolling hills very reminiscent of Europe with herds of jersey cows and sheep but also with large coffee and tropical fruit plantations.
The crater was at about 9000 feet with a small lake in its centre which was steaming away at a temperature of 40 degrees centigrade. They keep a close eye on it for eruptions and last year it had to be closed for a while because it was getting quite active.
The waterfall park was beautiful with a huge aviary and separate butterfly and hummingbird enclosures. I just regret I don´t have longer here in Costa Rica.
On Sunday I begin the long journey back and hopefully arrive in Lanjaron Tuesday afternoon tho whether my luggage will be with me is a moot point. I am due to fly into the new Terminal 5 at Heathrow which opened yesterday before flying on to Madrid.I hear however that the opening was an absolute disaster with lots of baggage missing. Oh well not to worry.
This is my last post and to all of you who have been reading them thanks for being on my trip with me.

Budapest - Budapest, Hungary

Jump to the full
entry & travel map
Budapest, Hungary

Getting off the train in Budapest I felt instantly on my guard, as a plethora of sellers gathered quickly around me like vultures over carrion. Old women barked at me and tried to sell rooms, taxi drivers hawked the scene and tried to sell rides, all before I'd reached the end of the platform. I made my escape and headed for the hostel. Arriving there a half hour later to find it deserted, I was informed by the (Cockney) shop owner next door that it was shut for renovations. He gave me a city map and circled another hostel around the touristy Vaci utca down by the Danube that he had heard was good. With no plan B in mind, I thanked him and headed off in search of it. I arrived there after a twenty minute walk and, after initially failing to spot it, I realised to my dismay that it was inside a dilapidated building right in front of me. I looked around and saw no signs of life and, unimpressed by the wrecked facade of this town house and unconvinced the hostel was even open, I decided I'd take my chances elsewhere. I picked out a couple of alternatives from the guide and headed off toward their general vicinity. My efforts eventually brought me towards the city's other train station, a built-up and commercial area that seemed less well-located than the previous areas. After another frustrating hour of searching, and with the light now fading, I found a hostel. It was as obscurely located as the previous one, similarly occupying a single floor of an old town house. As I made my way up the dank stairwell, it dawned on me that this town house style of hostel was very much the norm for Budapest, and I regretted having not just stayed at the first one and saved myself two hours of sweaty anxiety and frustration.
 
Inside, the hostel itself was very homely and clean. Too much so in fact, as it felt rather like I was intruding in someone's own living space and it was all rather too quiet. I dumped my bags in the dorm and, as I looked out the window into the cold evening darkness, I let out a long sigh of relief that I had a roof over my head at last. I took a long shower to wash away my little ordeal, and found upon my return to the dorm a room mate. I offered him an enthusiastic hello, but received in return only a cold silence and a look that said "don't you know this a hostel for people with absolutely no social skills?" I sat on my bed and observed the implied silence. Outside, a chilly wind was stirring, and I wondered if it might offer me more warmth than this unfriendly dorm. After an unproductive little wander around the city that first evening, I returned to the hostel and retired early to bed with my Theroux. It was a lonely existence, and would come to characterise my time in Budapest and much of the rest of trip. 
 
I awoke the next morning to a sterile winter sky, but was determined to make this my day of sight-seeing. Of all the cities I visited on the trip, Budapest's sights seemed farthest and widest spread. And while I had grown fond of aimless wanderings, so too had nine days of endless walking taken their toll on my limbs. I still covered fair distances by foot in my two and a half days, but I also indulged heavily in the city's superb public transport system, which I found to be a delight of convenience and reliability. Such wanderings that first morning brought me to the Great Synagogue. Despite its inauspicious surroundings next to a large and busy traffic junction, inside it maintained a silent elegance, while the adjoining museum housed a harrowing photographic account of the Holocaust. I felt rather like an imposter, though, having been instructed to wear a skullcap inside the synagogue.
 
For lunch I headed to the Great Market, which a Hungarian friend back home had recommended as a good place to get a cheap and authentic meal. This grand indoor market lacked the elegance and labyrinthine intrigue of the bazaars and souqs of the Middle East (to which I have become so accustomed), but it captured within its harsh metallic shell the sounds, smells and routines of local life, and I floated gratefully within it. As I sat enthusiastically slurping my goulash, I noticed too that I seemed to be the only tourist in the market, which in that moment was a welcome change.  


In the afternoon I headed across the Danube to Buda, the picturesque half of the city. There, in spite of a sterile sky as its canvass, the city seduced me for the first time. The beeping sounds of city traffic and the nagging pollution it brings were replaced by the serenity of the Old Town, its narrow roads spared of cars and people, its monuments and palaces stood in perfect stillness and its air as clean and crisp as the lush mountainside on which it stood. Even commercial Pest, from Buda's towering eyes, inspired a prolonged gaze; the city's many landmarks rising like grand reflections from the Danube. The Chain Bridge, elegant and historic, joined the city as one, and beyond it rose the great dome of St Stephen's Basilica; further along the river bank stood the Houses of Parliament, their neo-gothic turrets strangely reminiscent of Westminster; and perched in the depths of the Danube was Margaret Island, wintered but inviting, literally half-way between the old and the new, between history and modernity.  
I spent the remaining daylight in an aimless ramble around Margaret Island. My feet were shot by this stage, but the sheer enjoyment of feeling so far from the big city (yet only five minutes from it) spurred me on through its considerable depths. My only regret was that I was not there in spring when the park would regain its life and colour and I could have lay down amid its vast spread. But I contented myself in the contentment of others; kids playing football, hand-clasped couples in their own worlds, winter-clad pensioners wiling away the hours with chatter. It was beautiful scene.  
Later on I headed to the Terror House, a kind of interactive museum documenting Hungary's fraught past under occupation. My general policy at museums in the past has been to take the cheap option and avoid audio-guides. Yet, I found myself convinced by the ticket-man into paying extra for such an audio guide on this occasion, a decision I would come to bitterly regret. I found the whole experience of the museum deeply frustrating. On the one hand, it was highly innovative, interesting and informative, and each room of the museum documented the various stages of Nazi and Soviet occupation, and offered succinct worksheets to read as supplements (which off-set the need for the audio-guide). On the other hand, the 'interactive' elements of the museum, the noises, video footage and archive tapes, simply gave me a headache when combined with the audio-guide I'd been duped into purchasing. It just turned into an assault on my senses. If I could go again, I would steer clear of the audio-guide, read the worksheets instead and fully appreciate the aural and visual accompaniment of the museum.
 
Back at the hostel that evening, I hoped to find more stimulating company than the loser of the previous night, but none was forthcoming. I dined alone again and, after taking some notes for my blog, I retired to bed once again with my Theroux and, as I read, found myself enviously wondering how it was he always found himself in stimulating company. The complete lack of companionship was the bitter disappointment of my time in Budapest, as it is a city known for its nightlife; yet without initial company from the hostel, I never felt confident to go out and sample such a scene. 
 
The next day, awaking to a perfect blue sky, I had only one firm priority: to sooth my aching body at a thermal spa. First, though, I headed to St Stephen's Basilica to see it from the inside, having seen its beauty from distant Buda the previous afternoon. Afterwards, I headed back down to the Great Market for another generous portion of Goulash. As I sat with my head buried like a cave man in my bucket of goulash, I heard the broad Canadian tones of Saskatchewan. I looked up with pleasure to find both him and CSI-bashing Brummie Mike (whom I had last seen at a wine bar in Vienna) standing over me. It was such a welcome relief to see some familiar faces from my travels. I had known that Saskatchewan was in town, as he was following me to Budapest after an extra day in Bratislava, but Mike's presence was unexpected. My pleasure at seeing them, though, was tempered by my disappointment that I only met them on my final day - had the original hostel (which we'd made tentative plans to meet at) been open, I would have had Saskatchewan's company sooner, and could perhaps have enjoyed a real night out in Budapest. We sat and talked a while, and it transpired that they'd bumped into each other at a different hostel and had arranged this day to go on a caving expedition. My disappointment deepened, as I knew I couldn't realistically go on this trip and be back in time for my train. We said our good-byes for the final time, and I headed off to Heroes Square and to City Park beyond it where lay waiting the thermal spa.
 
Heroes Square, with its arched monument and grand museums, was a picture. Later, when I passed back through it after the spa, I found the sun setting in the distance, and the square basked in the unmistakable amber-purple of a dying winter sun. City Park too was inspiring, housing at it's centre the kind of castle conceived of a child's imagination. And from a distance, vast puddles of melted snow drew perfect reflections of the castle, and added to its fairy tale mystique.   
 
Within the park lay the thermal spa I had picked out. It was one of the more expensive options in a city replete with spas, but I had taken one look at it in a brochure and vowed to go. It did not disappoint. And, for once on this Euro trip, the winter setting seemed to add rather than detract from its beauty, as outside the harsh air created clouds of steam from the hot pools, while the low sun bounced effortlessly off the yellow facade of this grand building. As I crouched in the warm water and watched the steam build around me, I was awash with childhood memories of trips to Centre Parcs. They seemed apt recollections, as those trips had always been shared with my closest and oldest friends, who are themselves of Hungarian dissent. I spent several hours soothing myself back to health in the 15 or so pools, as well as the steam rooms and saunas. It really could not have come at a better time, as I was truly exhausted physically from my trek thus far through Europe and the ten-plus days of continual walking.
 
Both the spa and its idyllic setting were a perfect end to my time in Budapest, but in truth I did not enjoy my time in the city as much as I had hoped. Perhaps beyond all other destinations on my itinerary, I had most been looking forward to Budapest; but it left me feeling slightly disappointed and underwhelmed. However, I would attribute my disappointment more to my lack of companionship than to the city itself, though the entirely incomprehensible language added to my sense of isolation. In terms of the city itself, I felt most content when in the higher reaches of Buda away from the bustle and the throng, rather than the noisy, often-unattractive streets of Pest. But, should I go back (and I would love to do so again with friends), it is the noisier aspect of it, and Pest's social scene, that I would wish to sample next time around. 

GGGRRRand Canyon! - Flagstaff, Arizona, United States

Jump to the full
entry & travel map
Flagstaff, Arizona, United States

Very expensive place to stay but we had no choice. A bit like for Niagara Falls, there are tourists everywhere!!!

We had a glimpse at the Canyon yesterday but the dogs were our first worry... remember Fletcher's adventure in the "mare aux crocodiles", so we are doing it today... leaving the dogs in the trailer with air conditioning.

We checked the weather in Bromont and saw that around the 10 will be about 10 degrees, so we should be home for this date.

Road from Cantwell to Anchorage - Anchorage, Alaska, United States

Jump to the full
entry & travel map
Anchorage, Alaska, United States

Made it to Anchorage